Negotiation - Cambodian style ...

As with so many of the major sights we've visited there is no lack of opportunity to buy things from stalls outside the temples in the Angkor Wat area.

It can all get incredibly wearing - it would be all too easy to react with intense irritation when being given the hard-sell over a coconut you don't want for what seems like the hundredth time that day. You just have to keep reminding yourself that people are simply trying to make a few dollars a week to enable them to feed their families - it's the kind of hand to mouth existence that I can only begin to imagine. Just a smile as you decline normally gets a one in return and the good humour of the Cambodian people immediately becomes apparent.

As we left one of the temples late in the afternoon a young girl of around 7 or 8 started walking allongside us, and the usual routine started. "You want drink? Coconut? Postcard? Book?". After replying "No thank-you" to every item on the seemingly endless list a brand new tactic presented itself. Gradually bringing into view a meat cleaver she was carrying by her side, she just smiled sweetly and said "are you suuure?". We were in stitches (of laughter).

I don't think I'll be importing that particular negotiation technique into the UK when I return next year - in any event, I couldn't carry it off nearly as well as she did ...

Dirty monkey ...

Our visit to the temples of Angkor Wat was every bit as amazing as we'd anticipated - even if the dining habits of the resident temple monkeys left something to be desired ...

In all honesty I thought we'd already seen enough temples already to last us a lifetime, but even so we managed to spend 2 long hard days clambering up and down the most impressive ancient architecture you could hope to find anywhere. You can see some of the many, many photos I took by clicking here.



We based ourselves in Siem Reap, which innevitably had many of the hallmarks of a tourist trap (hawkers, strips of restaurants & bars) but still gave us an interesting insight into life in Cambodia.

Again it was automotive matters that stood out, the road rules being much the same as in Vietnam, but with a couple of interesting additions;

Firstly, the petrol station forecourt sliproad. Upon encountering one of the rare "Esso style" forecourts on a corner you wish to turn at, it is standard practice to cut the corner through the station. In fact I didn't see a single vehicle use the alternative road route.

Of course this is made far easier by the second notable difference - almost no-one uses forecourt petrol stations to buy fuel. The norm in Cambodia is to pull up at one of the many stalls selling whisky bottles full of pee-coloured liquid, and tip it into your moped filling tank. I'd guess there must be some sort of price advantage ...

After just a few short days we left Cambodia to head for a rendezvous with some pals from the UK in Bangkok. Like idiots we decided to save some money and take the bus. I think I'll just show you the photo I took from the bus window and let your imaginations do the rest ...



I've added a few new beers to the list - 2 from Cambodia - Angkor the official national brew and the rather nicer Anchor. It all made for rather confusing bar orders after a few had been consumed ...

the secret's in the soup ...

Sometimes it's the little things you really enjoy when travelling.

Like the traditional Vietnamese breakfast called "Pho Ha-noi" that they served up at our hotel in Hanoi - basically noodle soup with beef, served with red hot chillies and freshly squeezed lime.

When we got to Laos I was pleased to find that it's also the traditional breakfast here - but much better and just 50p for a massive bowl complete with a big plate of herbs, chillies and limes.

I was just coming to the end of the bowl when I discovered an added bonus - an authentic relic from the secret war. A US military issue spoon.

Now I'm no expert on warfare - but surely if it's supposed to be a secret war you really ought to remember to take your spoons home. Although I guess I should be grateful - the other thing they left behind were landmines, and you really don't want to find one of those in your soup ...

Kill or cure?

Views from your hotel room balcony are hardly ever this good, especially not for under 20 quid a night.

It didn't take long for us to realise that Luang Prabang is almost too good to be true in many other respects too. The old town consists almost entirely of old French colonial architecture and sits on a peninsula barely 400 yards wide, at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers.

As the old royal capital of Laos, it's jam packed with stunning buddist temples and stupas at every turn - and the French influenced food is absolutely amazing. We felt at home immediately and with plenty of things to do locally we decided to hang around for a couple of weeks.

After the first 4 days exploring town we headed off to a luxury jungle retreat. The bungalow we stayed in was pure decadence, complete with polished teak veranda big enough for a football game and huge bathroom plus outdoor shower. If it hadn't been for getting food poisoning from the otherwise very pleasant restaurant it would have been a perfect 3 days.

As it turned out I spent 2 days with suffering from stomach cramps that felt like being disemboweled (plus a good deal of other unpleasantness I won't go into). The beginning of relief only came when we made it back to town and Mel came back from the pharmacy with antibacterial medication and a sachet drink that tasted a bit like liquid clay. Then my neck started siezing up and I was so dizzy I could hardly leave the hotel room for another 2 days.

After more visits to the pharmacy and some internet research we discovered that the new symptoms we're listed under serious side-effects of the medication I was taking. All told it was a good 5 or 6 days before I returned to somewhere like normal (for me anyhow).

In the end I was just glad it happened where it did and we had the time to deal with it. We still had plenty of time to do loads of great things like riding (and feeding) elephants, white water kyaking (kind of scary), taking a slow boat up the Mekong or visiting the picture postcard perfect Khang Si waterfall.

Not forgeting time for a deep research into Beerlao for the beer league. It's absolutely perfect for lubricating a stiff neck ...

Lao Jungle and Luang Prabang photos are online now.

Lao or Laos ...?

We arrived in Luang Prabang, Peoples Democratic Repulic of Laos, early one August evening to possibly the most laid back international airport in the world.

As Laos suffers rather badly from people never having heard of it, this post provides a very brief history as best I understand it.

Laos is a former French colony in SE Asia which was captured by the Japanese during the second world war. It was briefly returned to the French after WW2 before regaining it's pre-colonial independence in the early 1950's.

The country is sandwiched inbetween China (North), Vietnam (East), Thailand & Burma (West) and Cambodia (South) with the ethnic majority Lao people (80%) being the same stock as the hill tribes of NE Thailand. It's also home to a number of minorities such as the Hmong who in the main still live a tribal existence unchanged for hundreds of years.

About the same time as the Vietnam War (or American War if your perspective is Vietnamese) there was a communist uprising in Laos. I was headed by the Pathet Lao who were supported in turn by North Vietnam and an unlimited supply of Chinese and Soviet military hardware. Fearing the supposed domino effect of communism taking hold throughout Asia, the US supported Laos in a so-called secret war against the communists for over a decade.

Throughout the Vietnam War the North Vietnamese continued to use the Ho Chi-Minh Trail (in Southern Laos) to allow it's troops to bypass the demilitarised zone (DMZ) seperating South Vietnam to wage geurrilla warfare on US forces, despite continued ariel bambardment of the trail. It's in part due to this fact that a small nation who have never declared war on anyone became one of the worlds most bombed in history.

After the US pulled out of SE Asia, both Vietnam and Laos became communist states (Laos a rather more peaceful one) - and both countries still retain a single party system, despite the fact they adopt a capitalist approach.

Today's Laos is still one of the worlds poorest countries, with an average annual salary of just $300 USD per capita. It also suffers terribly from the UXO (unexploded ordinance) that litters the countryside and claims 1500 lives per annum.

So those are the facts; however the first question most people have is "Do you say Lao or Laos?". Confusingly, I'd heard both in equal measure before we left the UK.

It turns out the country was always called simply Lao before the arrival of the French. The s being added by them to fit in with French language rules i.e. you don't pronounce the last letter. This means that the only change was designed simply to keep it the same. Which is not really a great help.

So I still don't have an answer (the only local I asked just shrugged), but on balance I'll be sticking with Lao for the next couple of weeks, as we find out what Luang Prabang has to offer the weary traveller ...