Sunday, April 08, 2007

Putin is my hero ...

Last night we had our official leaving party - only 3 weeks left now !

Big thanks to Anton and Mike for DJ-ing - I hope you both still managed to have a good time.

Here's our new Russian emergency pack - miniatures with Russian-English translations of phrases designed to introduce us to the locals - courtesy of Dan & Alison.

Putin is my hero

We'll need to pick our moment carefully if we're going to use the Putin one ... I'll certainly need to improve my knowledge of Russian politics first!

Passports & visa's finally arrived this week - and the dreaded tax return is done (far worse to do when away). Otherwise it's been intense email traffic between Leeds and Mongolia, hopefully we should get our plans finalised this week.

Check out the new media section - links to my photos and video, so you can go beyond the few highlights that make it here.

Due to the Easter weekend we didn't manage to catch up with all of you last night - but remember, there are still 21 drinking days left - so we'll try and fit you all in before the end of the month !

Sunday, April 01, 2007

Lichtenstein calling ...

Despite the fact that it is the 1st of April, I am still the fool.

Of course I should have checked which day trains leave Ulan-Bator for Beijing before choosing the dates for our visas ... but despite this realisation that I definitely haven't thought of everything, I still think I can reflect on a good week of travel planning.

Firstly, on Monday my horse-riding lesson was dramatically different - something "clicked" and I seem to have made the transition from arkward, overbalancing fool to having a nice relaxed rising motion and generally in substantially greater control of my horse. This is very good news indeed, as we arrive in Mongolia 6 short weeks from today ...

Then, on Wednesday our trans-Mongolian train tickets made a suprise early arrival (just 3 days after the Sunday they went on sale in Russia) - I would definitely use Real Russia again, great service - thanks guys. We also had the very last of our vaccinations - I'm not sure whether my arm or wallet is hurting most - the final killer blow? £175 worth of Malaria medication on private prescription.

Friday saw me doing something I've been putting off for a long while and I went shopping for an international mobile phone service. Now I've got to be honest and say that despite my very low expectations, it really wasn't so bad after all in the Carphone Warehouse and I ended up choosing the pay-as-you-go service from SIM4travel. With free (or reduced cost) inbound texts and calls this would be a great option for anyone on holiday - plus you get a Lichtenstein phone number!

This weekend my internet research led me to travel to Lancashire for a visit to Whalley Warm & Dry to get properly kitted out for the elements. They have a superb range of Paramo waterproofs, and excellent discount prices on their website (available in-store if you ask).

Finally (and probably best of all) on Friday night I went to Elland Road to see Leeds United finally win a match, beating Preston NE 2-1 in a glorious victory to lift Leeds off the bottom of the Championship for the first time in weeks!

Now, you're probably thinking "what has this got to do with travelling round the world?" - so in order to make the connection it looks like I'll have to seriously consider "adopting" some new teams by going to see them play (sorry Mel) - Katmandu United here we come!

Sunday, March 25, 2007

passports, permits and plans

Pre-departure planning continues to move ahead at speed ..

Finally on Tuesday the visa agency responded with our much anticipated passport numbers - so, all being well, our agency in Russia should have purchased the Trans-Mongolian tickets as they went on sale today.

I got my international driving permit this week (£5.50 from large post-offices) which looks a little like a ration book from the war - complete with translations in languauges I can't even identify, much less speak. Curiously it appears to entitle me to drive everything from a motorcycle to a heavy goods vehicle (with or without trailer) - vehicles I haven't even driven in this country, much less passed a test for ....

My thoughts have now turned firmly to planning our time Mongolia in a little more detail - and with hundreds of thousands of square miles of unowned, unfenced land to explore there are plenty of options. We hope to arrange our own transportation and local guides, so this part of the trip should have a real expedition feel to it.

After Mel rejected the first of my proposals for this part of our trip (I'll allow you to work out why from the link) - I'm now looking into feasibility of travel by chartered Jeep to the Gobi Desert in the South, before making our way North to Khovsgol Nuur and swapping to horseback to explore the National Park surrounding the lake.

I will leave you with this photograph I took on the staircase of a guesthouse in Chang Mai, Thailand when I travelled there in December 1999. I can only suppose they had experienced previous cases of mistaken identity - although I remain unsure of what the checking procedure would have actually involved ...

Thursday, March 22, 2007

winter skills training in the highlands ...

We decided we should learn some mountain skills in the event of any, shall we say, adverse conditions we might encounter en-route. So, despite the onset of heavy colds we headed north for the 6-hour drive to Kingussie, our base for a February weekend of winter skills training.

Day 1 - Our instructor Richard picked us up and took us to the ski-lift at the bottom of Cairngorm mountain - the combination of snow & glorious winter sunshine had brought the skiers out in force, but sadly only those with ski-passes we're allowed to take the easy way to the top.

After a quick "this is how to carry your ice-axe" lesson in the carpark (shoved in the gap between your rucksack and back, with the axehead resting on the back of your neck - apparently) we hiked uphill for about an hour to reach serious snow, rock and ice.

The first part of our day was spent teaching us how to move safely on steep frozen surfaces - kicking or cutting steps with ixe-axe, navigation techniques, and then as we ascended further to over 1000 metres we got a quick lesson in mountain weather, as it went from sunshine to blizzard and back again in 45 minutes.

There was no real lunchtime with Richard as "you get cold when you stop" so it was a a case of eating as much as we could in 3 minutes before moving on to the second part of the day, ice-axe arrest - otherwise known as what to do if you fall off the mountain.

Our training consisted of us practicing a serious of simulated falls, in increasingly alarming positions - culminating in a rapidly accelerating headfirst slide backwards down a steep icy mountainside, with only your ice-axe to stop you falling. If you have ever had an ice-cube down the back of your t-shirt, you can probably imagine how we felt coming down off the mountain.

As we returned to the guesthouse, our colds returning with a vengence we knew the next day would only be harder. So there was only really one thing for it. We went to the pub.

Day 2 - Despite reports from the Tipsy Laird of "feeling better" at 11.30pm the previous evening, Mel's cold had worsened.

On the promise from Richard of a quick detour to the petrol station in Aviemore for some beechams powders I decided to carry on - and we headed back up to the ski lift car park once more.

This time we headed for another part of the mountain, and after a 45 minute march we arrived in the sheltered Corrie where we would use crampons (spiky feet) for the first time. It was about 3 minutes after being asked to follow the rest of the group up a steep slope of solid clear ice that I remembered my fear of heights - all that was keeping me from a dangerous slide down the hill was a few short spikes on each foot. In the end it was just a case of head having to overule heart and although it was probably the most difficult part of the weekend, with a little practice I was soon moving around with greater ease.

Crampons-fitted, it was now time to tackle our first Munro (Scottish peaks over 1000m) and we climbed the frozen wall of the Corrie - we were rewarded with some stunning views of the Cairngorm plateau (right) as we reached the top. After walking along the ridge, we made the final ascent to the summit of Cairn Gorm at 1245m, the UK's 5th highest mountain and site of a famous automatic weather station .

Whether we'll have to call on these skills while we're away I really don't know, but it was a very memorable weekend and an interesting glimpse into the world of serious mountaineering. I think Mel will remember it more for sitting by a log fire, watching the red squirrels in the trees outside the guesthouse - but there are certainly worse places to have a cold!


___________________________
Sent by Mark Fretwell via the free Email Scheduler service.
Register now at http://www.emailschedule.com

Monday, March 19, 2007

6 weeks to D-Day ...

Departure Day that is - just 6 short weeks until we leave, and plans are well underway.

We have officially started running down supplies of dried and tinned goods - the cause of a few interesting food combinations - if anyone out there knows a good recipe for desicated coconut & mushroom ketchup please let me know.

The latest on travel plans is some difficulty with international train tickets from Russia, with the continued absence of our passports at the visa agency being the primary cause - with the kind help of my long-suffering travel agent I hope to get things resolved over the next week.

I found a great website this week detailing a one-man struggle to travel around Mongolia on horseback, it grabbed my interest as this is likely to be our first wilderness destination and chosen mode of transport. He has some very interesting parallels with our own plans - not least the part about not really being able to ride.

Now I really must learn the Mongolian for "quiet horse" ...